More Amazing Things About Indian Lake State Park

There are several things that fit my goals by camping at Indian Lake State Park.  I prefer camping in Michigan's U.P., but many places require a very long drive for me on two-lane roads, which Yoopers call highways.  But Indian Lake is located just outside of Manistique, MI which is only an hour from the Mackinac Bridge, the gateway to the U.P.

Not only is it not so far away, the drive down U.S. 2 parallels the Lake Michigan shore, and every moment offers beautiful scenery.  If you have to pull a tin can on a narrow road to get to your destination, a view of a Great Lake takes away much of the stress.  Once you arrive in Manistique, there are actually gas stations and places to stop for coffee before the 5 minute drive out to the State Park.  Indian Lake is easy to find, and any camping next to a body of water is good camping.

After spending a day exploring Kitch-iti-kipi and an evening hunkering down during a storm, I awoke to a flooded campground and 40mph winds.  I don't think the flooding is typical, it was just a massive storm that dumped a lot of rain.  The temperature had dropped 30 degrees, so instead of a calm sunny day in August with temps in the 70's, I was greeted with a cloudy windy day in the 40's.  Big difference.  I had to put my awning in, which meant I had no protection from the rain that was coming, and a campfire was out of the question.  The wind would have carried the embers and potentially started an unwanted fire.  So, what to do with my day?  I visited the DNR ranger station, and was given some ideas.

Heading back to Manistique, I pulled into the parking area for the public beach on Lake Michigan.  Only a couple other cars were parked, and upon climbing over a small dune, I was greeted with a site more akin to Lake Huron than Michigan.  The beach looked awful, with debris piled up in small mounds.  It wasn't until I started down the boardwalk and came to an informational sign that I understood the truly unique source of the debris, not to be found anywhere else.

During the lumbering era of the late 1800's and early 1900's, lumber mills in the Manistique area deposited wood chips and sawdust in the Manistique River, which flows into Lake Michigan.  It is estimated that 5.1 million tons of sawdust (that's a lot of sawdust) washed into Lake Michigan, where it settled on the bottom.  Storms, water currents, and large vessels churn up this sawdust, and over 100 years later, the sawdust is still washing up on the shore at Manistique.


I was fascinated by this.  Taking my shoes off, I walked down the sandy dunes to the sawdust debris piled at the water's edge.  At first I was apprehensive about walking barefoot, imagining millions of tiny splinters embedding in my feet, but the moment I stepped onto the first mound, I was immediately transported to a natural spa.  The sawdust, soaked in water for over a century, felt like warm rum custard (or any kind of custard, I just prefer rum).  I sunk in about 4-5 inches, and it was so soft, creamy and warm!  Unlike mud, it didn't suck my feet under, and I was easily able to pull my feet out and walk some more.  I felt like a child discovering the beach for the first time, with a sun-warmed carpet on which to walk while the chilly wind whipped my hair.  I was completely enamored of the sawdust beach.

I found a piece of driftwood and sat down to take some pictures.  There was a storm brewing over the water, but it had not yet clouded the sun and I knew I had plenty of time before the tumultuous clouds reached the shore.  I watched a big ship loading it's passengers, stared up at the lighthouse, and marveled at the diamond-like quality of the surface of the water, with the sun shining on my back and a distant storm making its way toward Manistique from the south.

Even with the wind roaring around my head, I found a peacefulness, a serenity to the scene before me.  I was seeing Mother Nature in all her forms and experiencing the pleasant side effect of an unpleasant contamination of the lake.  My thoughts drifted, my body relaxed, when CRACK!  BOOM! startled me   in every single cell of my body.  Turning around, I saw a doozy of a storm had snuck up behind me, from the north.  It made the storm out over the water look pale in comparison.  My first thought was I should prepare to head back to the campground.  My second thought was "What's going to happen when these two storms meet each other?"  That got me moving.

I made it to the car just as the first rain drops started to fall, and by the time I pulled out to the road the rain was coming down in sheets.  Trees were bending over with the wind and lightning was flashing in every direction.  I couldn't see to drive, but wanted so much to get back to the tin can and make sure she was holding up.

It took me 30 minutes to drive 7 miles, and the two storms met as I pulled up next to the camper.  I didn't think it could get much worse, but I was wrong.  In the four steps it took me to reach the camper door, I was drenched, and when I opened the door the wind threatened to rip it off the hinges.  Safely inside, I changed into dry clothes and grabbed a book to wait it out.

It was only early afternoon, and the storm raged for three more hours.  By the time it was over, the campers at Indian Lake had torn awnings, blown away furniture, and a general mess to clean up.  As people slowly emerged from RV's and tents, we all greeted each other and helped put things right.  I had fared well, having put everything that was outside my camper in the back of my Yukon that morning.  It was still too windy to put anything back out, so I helped others while forlornly looking at my bare campsite.  Camping for me involves sitting by a fire, being outside, and enjoying nature.  The only thing left for me at that point was to stay outside.


I walked the entire campground to see the damage and take pictures.  I found a general day-use lodge, empty, and took some pictures while dreaming of what it would be like to live there, sans all the other campers.  A stone lodge on a lake had me planning where the living area would be, the kitchen, and mostly my bedroom, which would occupy the space of the current men's room with an incredible view of the lake.  It wasn't just that I love dreaming about my cabin in the woods on a bluff overlooking a lake, it also gave me a break from the relentless wind.  I found myself wishing I could start a fire in the massive stone fireplace and spend my evening there.

Leaving the lodge, I discovered the trail system at Indian Lake State Park.  What an amazing system of trails, well-marked, surrounded by tall pines and following the shoreline.  The wind was marginally less abusive in the trees, allowing me to walk for a couple of miles before looping back to the campground.  My camera never stopped clicking away as I had the trails to myself.  Apparently, I was the only camper crazy enough to go hiking in this weather.

Another stormy night ensued, but the next morning broke sunny, cold, and still windy.  I planned to hike the Hiawatha National Forest (which I'll write about later) before leaving the next day.  Locking up the tin can, I headed out for yet another adventure surrounding Indian Lake State Park, eager to embrace the sun and confident it was far too cold for the snakes to stalk me in the forest.

There is just so much to do when camping at Indian Lake!

New Places, New Faces, Same Story…Awesome!

I am one of those annoying people who watched a movie a few years ago, jumped on the bandwagon, and wrote my own Bucket List.  It's a long one, with the top two lines reading "Alaska in the Tin Can",  and "Write A Story".  Further down the list is "Camp One Night in Each of Michigan's State Park Campgrounds".  To that end, I spent last weekend at Port Crescent State Park, at the tip of the thumb in Michigan, along the Great Lakes Bay Region.  I've never before gone east to camp in my great state, so I was apprehensive, mostly about the reported snake population that thrives in the reedy, marshy waters of Lake Huron's shoreline.

The day I left home was my favorite kind of summer day; hot, windy, sunny, but with storms threatening in the evening hours.  The iPod was on shuffle, the tin can was clean and packed, and Rooney was in the back seat looking out the window, with what I swear was a smile on his face.  Newfies are known for their solemn faces, but Rooney looked so happy.  Google Maps re-routed me away from the construction zone on M-25 to take me on a delightful, meandering voyage through farmland and wind turbine fields.  Stretched out in front of me were no less than 100 wind turbines, possibly more.  The majestic towers spun lazily in the breeze, waving to me and sending me along my way.  It was rather awesome.

I came upon a roadside rest stop, and discovered the first site of a natural disaster responded to by the Red Cross.  I then continued along M-25 to catch glimpses of Lake Huron, and storm clouds building in the sky far away over the cold water.  When I pulled into Port Crescent State Park, I knew I still had plenty of time to set up camp before the storms, yet I felt rushed to complete my camp so I could watch the storm approach while sitting on the beach.

The tin can was ready to be inhabited with 20 minutes to spare.  I walked Rooney while we could still stay dry, then settled into my camp chair under the awning and felt the wind shift as electricity filled the air.  I could actually smell the rain coming, and with the first distant rumble of thunder, I felt my surroundings change as the storm came upon me.

It was a lovely storm; not dangerous from where I was sitting, just a brilliant display of light and sound reminding me of how powerless we are to stop nature, and how lucky we are to experience it.

The storms came and went all weekend, but it didn't stop Rooney and me from exploring the park and meeting other campers.  I have always
found that each state park in Michigan attracts a certain "type" of camper, and at Port Crescent I found the best kind of people.  Every camper I met didn't care what the weather was doing, they had come to enjoy the peace of camping along the shoreline of a Great Lake, get outside to walk slowly and take in their surroundings, and share their stories over a fire.  They were a friendly bunch who respected each other's privacy.  And, of course, they all fell in love with Rooney.

Speaking of Rooney, he once again has a brown tail, instead of his usual black and white.  He really must learn not to back up to the bonfire.  While I appreciate torch light, the smell of burnt hair that still lingers in the tin can is unpleasant, at best, and downright sickening when a rainy day turns the odor to wet, burnt hair.  As with the other times, his hair is so thick he never even knew he was on fire until I tackled him to the ground at beat him with a blanket.  I assure you, his expression quickly reverted to the Newfie "sad look".



All in all, Port Crescent gave me exactly what I needed for this trip.  Sunny days, stormy nights, and wonderful campground hosts who were knowledgable about the area and gave good suggestions for things to do.  The campground is quite secluded, miles from the nearest town of Port Austin, and make sure you fill your gas tank in Caseville before you arrive.  Though the black flies were biting, and there are no trails within the campground, and dogs can't go anywhere near the beach without a DNR officer appearing out of nowhere, the campground was clean and my site was on the beach.  The sunsets were stunning, the driftwood was spectacular, and the staff, hosts, and campers were a friendly group, making my stay rather enjoyable.  For a quiet weekend, I would return there to regain peace and perspective in a busy life.  As a side note, I am most pleased to report that I didn't see a single snake.  They must not have known I was coming.

Dreams Really Do Come True

So many times I have walked the shores of the Great Lakes in Michigan, longing to get away from all the tourists and vacationers who invade the beaches each summer, looking for the same enjoyment as I. When I would get to the end of the State property and see the sign marked "Private Land", I would stare longingly at the empty shoreline ahead of me and wonder what the people were like who were lucky enough to own a piece of the beach.  I dreamed of letting my dog, Rooney, run on the beach, and not seeing anyone for miles.  Today, for just a few hours, I lived the dream.

After a frantic push to get my 1970 Airstream restored, I was able to finish enough of the work to put her back together this week and head way north to Cheboygan State Park.  I had never been there, but available campsites on the 4th of July are few, and it was the first park I looked at on the DNR website that had a few sites still open.  I have always gravitated to the west side of Michigan, so heading east to Lake Huron has been a new experience, certainly one I will never regret.

A Quiet Campsite

The state park in Cheboygan is one of the best kept secrets in Michigan. 

My site was shaded and secluded, with lots of privacy and a cool breeze coming off the lake.  Temperatures were in the 90's, but the tin can stayed cool under the canopy of trees that framed her.  Rooney found the grove of pine trees in my site a comfortable place to sleep.  It was so quiet!  Even though the campground was mostly full, people were enjoying the sounds of nature and the sight of Lake Huron peeking through the campsites.  

Rooney, hot on the trail

                                                                             I spent the first day exploring the many trails that are well marked and offer shade.  I felt sorry for Rooney, though, because even on the tree-covered trails the air temperatures were high and he was suffering in the heat.  When we returned from a long hike, Rooney dropped on his bed of pine needles, panting, worn out.  It was then that an older couple walked by with their dog and stopped to ask about the Airstream.  As we talked, they told me of a short trail just down the road that leads to the beach, where dogs are allowed.  I have never camped in a Michigan state park that allowed dogs on the beach, so I verified the information with a DNR officer, and the next day we walked that trail.

It was only a ten minute walk, but when the trees fell away to reveal a sandy beach, I was shocked and elated.  I could see down the beach forever, and there was not another person in sight!  Rooney and I walked for a bit on the water's edge, splashing our feet and cooling off, when in a moment of trust I did something I have never done before; I let Rooney off his leash.  He loved it!  He ran in the water of Lake Huron, then ran out, shook himself off, and loped down the beach.  Every so often, he would stop and turn to look at me, as if to say "C'mon, hurry up!"  It was heartwarming to see my dog do what dogs should do, run and splash and get muddy and hurry back to my side.  I spent the afternoon walking a deserted beach with my dog running free, and it was good.

Rooney, Unleashed!

An endless empty beach

As we returned to the campground, I stopped in to see Rachael at the Check-In Station.  I asked her what she thinks makes this campground so special, and even though she has only worked there a short time, she said,

"It's because we are old-fashioned".

The Perfect Campsite

Ah, she defined what I was feeling.  Only 20 amp service is available there, so there were no big campers with air conditioning units running and people staying inside to escape the heat.  No, all the campers were in tents or simple trailers, and we all were sweating together, not complaining, just glad to be living outside for a bit.  No one was fancy.  It was a campground full of simple people, like me, who want to get away from real life for a few days and let their kids ride bikes without helmets on, splash in the water, and sit outside to eat, talk, remember a childhood that was more basic, yet far richer, than what we know today.

The View

The rocky bottom of Lake Huron

Cheboygan State Park is happily no longer of the best-kept secrets in Michigan for us in-betweeners.  Remote tent camping isn't for everyone, neither is high-tech RVing.  This place is for people who want to be able to plug in a light or a radio, who seek solitude on the shoreline, and who want a quiet camping experience with just enough comfort to remind us of home.

I intend to return often.  For this happy camper, Cheboygan State Park offers just what I need.  A quiet and private site, a clean campground, and miles of empty beach with my dog running free.  If this was a dream, I plan for it to be a recurring one.

P.J. Hoffmaster State Park

It is always a little scary for me to camp in a new place.  As much as I love exploring, I also like my camping to be "just so", with my site very specific to privacy, shade (no A/C in the tin can), and ease of access to trails for walking the dogs.  Often I return to the same few State campgrounds, simply because I know in advance which site to reserve to suit my needs.  By doing so, I limit myself and fail to be the bold adventurer that is lurking within my soul, so every once in a while I force myself to go someplace new.

I had read several Pure Michigan! articles that described P.J. Hoffmaster State Park as the most beautiful campground in Michigan.  It sounded like a good place for me to branch out, with soft sand dunes and beaches, a pristine Lake Michigan shoreline, and a peaceful campground.  I will give Hoffmaster high points for the beach, dunes, and shoreline, and the intriguing Black Creek which runs through the park and empties into the big lake.  For me, though, Hoffmaster didn't meet my expectations of the most beautiful park in Michigan.

There are some very good things at Hoffmaster.  The campground itself is designed nicely as long as you don't seek solitude.  Also, you cannot see or hear Lake Michigan from the campground, which is common of the western shore campgrounds in Michigan.  The walk to the top of the dunes overlooking the big lake is a nice walk, but a bit far on deep sand for families carrying towels, beach chairs, kids, and picnic baskets.  Other than that, it is a truly beautiful area with much to offer.

Michigan has many species of indigenous trees, most of which end up toppled over on their side whenever they grow within a certain distance of the shore.  It is one of my favorite things to see when I roam around outdoors, I have hundreds of pictures of sideways trees.  I find them sad and ominous and hopeful and beautiful all at the same time.

P.J. Hoffmaster is also a sprawling park, with an outstanding visitor center located a couple of miles from the campground.  Paved roads and foot trails lead the way to an informative program which not only tells the story of the park, but offers guided hikes on the largest sand dune in southern Michigan.  The staff there is extremely helpful and knowledgable with many stories of the dunes and lakeshore.  The railed boardwalk makes for an easier hike to the shoreline than going over the massive dune, for those like me who have dogs or children, or just want a more pleasant stroll.  Be aware, though, that as with most state parks, dogs are not allowed on the beach.

Within the campground itself runs Black Creek, with marshy sides and clear water.  As it empties into Lake Michigan on the beach, it provides a cool and shallow swim area for younger campers and a very clean, sandy beach for mom and dad to sit and watch.  The sand is so soft and free of debris there, it was easy to walk the beach or sit on a blanket with a good book.  I watched retired couples stroll hand in hand at the water's edge, smiling at the young newlyweds passing by.  Families enjoyed picnics while the kids splashed and swam in the clearly designated swim area of the lake, and beyond the buoys large sailboats and yachts cut through the swells and offered a spectacular view.

The minor dissatisfaction I felt with my campsite is more a statement of my personal preference, not a negative reflection of the campground in general.  It is very clean and easy to access, and judging by the hard work of the entire DNR staff while I was there, it is continually being updated and improved.  I further found the staff to be friendly and helpful in giving me suggestions for places to explore within the park, and of course they all fell in love with Rooney and gave him lots of attention.

If you want to see one of the most beautiful beaches in Michigan, and camp in a clean and quiet place with lots of shade and cool breezes, visit P.J. Hoffmaster State Park.  You will meet friendly people, take long walks, and watch stunning sunsets.  You will find clean facilities, well marked trails, and one really big sand dune.  If you're lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of Rooney!

Unit Map Courtesy of Michigan.org/dnr